After two peated whiskies that were matured in sherry casks, the third whisky from Gordon and Macphail “The Wood Makes the Whisky” campaign is a straightforward ex-bourbon matured whisky from Speyburn distillery.

We’re not used to see many Speyburn indie bottlings out there. In fact, there aren’t many official bottlings, but G&M have longtime relationships and connections with various distilleries and whisky producers and so they stocked a few casks from Speyburn, released under the “Connoisseurs Choice” brand. The latest one, which was part of the package is a 1989 vintage that was bottled in 2013 so it’s a 23-24 year old.

Connoisseurs Choice Speyburn 1989 (46%, £75.95/€97.99)

Nose: Bread dough, cereals, sourdough, grapefruits, honey, white pepper, gentle wet wood note. After 2-3 minutes it’s sweeter with added honey and then some traces of vanilla, gentle flowery and spearmint notes, not perfumed but hints at it and still lots of grapefruits

Palate: sweet honey and bread dough, that spearmint from the nose? now it’s menthol, pink grapefruits, then spicy, lots of white pepper, surprisingly quite bodily.

Finish: medium, grapefruits, honey and vanilla, menthol, traces of white pepper and oak wood spices.

Thoughts: This one grew on me. At first I thought it’s an average whisky but with time and patience it rewarded me with a lovely classic old school ex-bourbon profile and I can see myself getting a bottle.