In the last post on Whisky Gospel I’m reviewing a trio of Rums. Yes, not Whisky but instead it will focus on Rum.
You may take this as a statement on the whisky market status in 2019 and you may be right, not that it was all bad as we did have some good releases. But still, this sherried trio from Foursquare Rum Distillery is one of the best things I’ve tasted in 2019.
All 3 rums are Single Blended Rum (both Pot and Column still rums) that were distilled in 2004 and bottled in 2019, 100% matured in Barbados.
Firstly there’s Foursquare Empery which is part of Foursquare Exceptional Cask Series, thus it’s globally available (where it’s not out of stock yet). Part of the Pot Column distilled rum was matured for 10 years in ex-bourbon casks and then 4 years in ex-sherry casks.
Secondly there’s Foursquare Hereditas which is an exclusive bottling for The Whisky Exchange’s 20th Anniversary celebrations. Part of the rum was aged for 10 years in ex-bourbon and then 4 years in ex-sherry, while the rest was matured in ex-bourbon only.
And finally there’s Foursquare Patrimonio which is part of the distillery collaboration with Velier. Just like Hereditas, part of the rum was aged for 10 years in ex-bourbon and 4 years in ex-sherry, while the rest was matured in ex-bourbon only.
I was fortunate enough to taste all three of them in a single session of our great local Rum club and perform a head to head comparison.
Nose: Dried fruit, a tad dirty at first with some struck matches, cherry chocolate, wood spices, green fruits, banana, sugar, sourness of pineapple juice. After a few minutes a bit more ‘Foursquary’ with more fruitiess of subtle fermented fruit and esters. Later on some chocolate and leather.
Palate: Sweet sugar and wood spices, drying, cinnamon, a bit of nutmeg, dried fruits, leather then cacao and chocolate and fruitiness in the background.
Finish: Medium long length, lingering sweet dried berries, chocolate and leather, drying sherry spices and Demerara sugar.
Foursquare Hereditas (56%, 2520 bottles, £79.95)
Nose: Not so deeply sherried. More fruitiness with weak cherries, struck matches, dried fruit and tropical fruit and after a few minutes chocolate. It seems like the sherry and Fourquare-ness is far more balanced here.
Palate: Starts with deep dried red berries and dried cherries ,chocolate tropical fruits, Demerara sugar, fermented banana, then sherry spices, cinnamon and nutmeg , more chocolate and cacao.
Finish: Medium long length, chocolate, fruitiness and banana.
Nose: Dirty and earthy, moss and fungus, cherries and fresh berries, feels more elegant. After a few minutes, quality dark chocolate (70-80% cocoa), subtle leather and dried dark plums.
Palate: Here it’s more like the other 2 members of the trio, chocolate, fruit, Demerara sugar and espresso. But also stronger sweet wood spice/extract (like Foursquare 2005), subtle pepper and oak spice.
Finish: Medium long length, chocolate, espresso, sweet wood extracts and spice.
Thoughts: First of all it should be said that all 3 rums are excellent. In fact most of Foursquare rums are good but those 3 are lovely and I love the sherry impact here. Specifically I felt that Empery has more sherry influence with lots of sherry fruitiness while Hereditas has more chocolate than fruits and felt slightly more balanced in terms of sherry and Foursquare. Patrimonio was the complex of the three and this is what I have a bottle of at home. But if your budget is a bit more modest, go for Hereditas and if you like big time sherry fruitiness, look no further than Empery.